Once called the highest summit in Tyrol, the Ortler (3,905 m) is still South Tyrol’s highest mountain. Climbing it never gets old for me – not least because the retreating glacier changes the normal route a little every year.
The normal route
The classic ascent starts in Sulden. On day one we climb via the Tabaretta hut (2,556 m) to the Payer hut (3,029 m), spectacularly perched on a ridge. On day two we set off early for the summit and then descend to the valley.
The route is very varied: rock climbing and cramponing on the glacier alternate. The rock sections reach grade III, and the hardest passages are secured with chains. On the glacier there are slopes of up to 40°.
The Hintergrat
Especially beautiful – and considerably harder – is the Hintergrat. It starts from the Hintergrat hut (2,661 m). The long, exposed ridge requires climbing experience and excellent fitness; with the descent via the normal route it makes a long day of 10 to 14 hours. If you are confident on rock, this is one of the great ridge climbs of the Eastern Alps.
The Meraner Weg
The longest ascent leads from the Bergl hut along the Meraner Weg. You are usually on your own here – ideal if you want to avoid the crowds and enjoy a quiet, wild alpine tour.
Requirements
- Stamina for two long days with big height differences
- Sure-footedness on rock and experience with crampons
- For the Hintergrat: confident climbing at grade III, downhill too
- Some acclimatisation – a day above 3,000 m beforehand helps noticeably
On the Ortler I guide up to three people. The best time is high summer into early autumn; I check the glacier conditions carefully before every tour.
Good preparation – and looking ahead
Once you have climbed the Ortler, you have taken an important step towards the big 4,000 m peaks. How to continue from there is in my post How fit do I need to be for the Matterhorn?.
