Incredibly beautiful and imposing, the Scotoni reigns above the Lagazuoi. The face was considered unclimbable until 1952, when Lino Lacedelli, Ghedina and Lorenzi – three seasoned climbers of Cortina’s Scoiattoli – climbed it in three days, grading their line VI+ with only a few aid moves.
The next feat came in winter 1972: in two days Enzo Cozzolino and Flavio Ghio opened the famous Fachiri route up to VI+ – in trainers and jeans. A masterpiece of Dolomite history that is rarely repeated because it appears in few guidebooks. If you don’t shy away from traverses, it offers plenty of joy and adventure.
As a local guide I may drive my 4×4 up to the Scotoni hut, saving about 45 minutes of steep approach and descent.
Routes & summits to choose from
- Lacedelli
- Fachiri
Demands & experience
Location
Dolomite summitsCima Grande – normal route2.999 m · Sexten Dolomites
Dolomite summitsCima Ovest – normal route2.973 m · Sexten Dolomites
Dolomite summitsCima Piccola – normal route2.857 m · Sexten Dolomites
Classic rock climbsPunta Frida2.792 m · Three Peaks
Classic rock climbsPreuss Tower – Preuss crackThree Peaks
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